Kokoda Map & Itinerary

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Day 1 – Port Moresby – Good Water Camp/Dump 66

Today we travel by road from Port Moresby via the Bomana War Cemetery to pay our respect to the fallen soldiers. We then travel to Sogeri where there is a white stone monument marking the beginning of the Kokoda Trail. Our road journey then takes us to McDonald’s Corner, this is where “B” company of the 39th Battalion commenced their walk to Kokoda and then onto the North Coast area. “B” company was led by Captain Sam Templeton and guided by Bert Kienzle. They departed McDonald’s Corner on July 7 1942 and arrived in Kokoda July 15 1942. We continue to Owers’ Corner with an air of excitement and apprehension for the journey ahead.  There is time to relax along the road and take photographs of the spectacular scenery.

On our arrival at Owers’ Corner we make final checks and preparations for the trek ahead and meet our personal porters. Owers’ Corner was also the place where our Australian troops first received the morale boosting artillery support from the gunners. Three 25 pound guns were positioned on the ground and fired 800 rounds over three days into Ioribaiwa Ridge, where the Japanese made their last big push; it took 25 seconds for the projectiles to cover the 15miles across Imita Ridge into Ioribaiwa.

Our troops also dragged down the hill one of the 25 pound guns across Goldie River and up towards Imita Ridge. Have a look for the original zig zag track cut along the way which wound its way down the ridge and up towards Imita Ridge. We start the Kokoda Track with a steep descent down to the Goldie River. The trail crosses the Goldie River and past the abandoned village of Uberi.  The first camp is deep jungle, in an old wartime campsite location of Dump 66 at the foot of Imita Ridge. Dump 66 was a major supply/logistic area and also had a medical aid post.

Overnight Dump 66

Day 2 - Good Water Camp/Dump 66 – Ioribaiwa

The first full day of the Kokoda Trail walk includes the ascent up Imita Ridge.  Although this is not the steepest or the highest of the mountains along the trail, it will give you an indication of things to come. We stop on top of Imita Ridge and soak in the atmosphere of the place. Imita Ridge was our last line of defence, the line was drawn in the sand here, there was to be no further withdrawal. There was a set of ‘Golden Stairs’ on both sides of Imita Ridge and up towards Ioribaiwa Village. It is important to remember across the Kokoda Track that there was more then one set of Golden Stairs. We descend down Imita Ridge into the beautiful Ua-Ule Creek area (Pronounced Fa-Lay).Here we take our boots off and put on our adventure sandals to cross the creek 22 times. After the creek crossings we put our boots back on and make our final ascent for the day up the gruelling Ioribaiwa Ridge. You will now know that all that training was now worthwhile.  Our walk today finishes at the Village of Ioribaiwa.

Overnight Iorabaiwa

Day 3 - Ioribaiwa – Nauro

We have an early start today as we leave Ioribaiwa Village and make our climb up to the top of Ioribaiwa Ridge. This is the furthest spot that the Japanese made across the Kokoda Track, before being ordered to advance to the rear back to Buna. From this point on the ridge the Japanese could see the lights of Port Moresby. Ioribaiwa Ridge was also the spot where our artillery was pounding the Japanese and the scene of bloody fighting. There is also a series of both Australian and Japanese trenches in this area. Our journey takes us down towards Ofi Creek which was the scene of a very successful Australian ambush on the Japanese. Our journey across the Kokoda Trail see us climb one of the most difficult and tiresome sections of the track up and over the Maguli Range to the village of Naoro this is a long climb up that appears to never end. Naoro is another village we see in our travels and is a very pretty place.  On the way up there is a concealed Japanese trench system at the Japanese camp where the Japanese mountain gun was being used to pound the Australians on Ioribaiwa Ridge. We camp at Nauro.

Overnight Nauro Village

Day 4 - Nauro – Menari

After breakfast we continue our trek through the swamps of Nauro. This area was also used for aerial drops or biscuit bombing. This area is very swampy and hard going after rain. We cross the fast flowing Brown River before walking through Agulogo on our way to “the wall.” “The Wall is a steep hard climb that takes us to the Menari Gap with views across to Brigade Hill. We have a steep descent down to Menari Village. In the Village is an old Fuzzy Wuzzy Faole, we stop and chat and hear about is stories of the war. Menari is also the village that the Commanding Officer of the 39th Battalion Lt Col Ralph Honner immortalised the 39th Battalion with the Ragged Bloody Heroes photo taken by legendary Australian Photographer Damien Parer. We spend the afternoon relaxing and enjoying the sights and atmosphere of Menari.

Overnight Menari Village

Day 5 - Menari – Efogi 2

Today we have a long tiring climb up to Brigade Hill. Brigade Hill and Mission Ridge was the scene of a major battle 6-8 September 1942 where 101 Australian Soldiers lost their lives.

At Brigade Hill we stop and discuss the battle on Brigade Hill and Mission Ridge before participating in our commemoration service to pay our respects to the soldiers who served us so gallantly during this battle.

We now descend down from Brigade Hill and stop at Nishimura’s stump. Nishimura is the Japanese soldier who pledges to recover the remains of his deceased comrades. He is known as the “Bone Man”.

Our journey continues past the Mission Ridge turnoff. The scenery along this part of the track is spectacular, with views to Mt Bellamy and Kagi. We walk through the Village of Efogi before commencing our steep but short walk up to Efogi 2. From Efogi 2 we have spectacular views across the valley to Mt Victoria.

Overnight Efogi 2

Day 6 – Efogi 2 – 1900

After an early breakfast we commence our descent down from Efogi 2 before commencing a hard climb up to Naduri. Naduri is the Village where one of the last Fuzzy Wuzzy lives Ovuru Ndiki. Ovuru loves sharing his stories about his war experiences.

We continue our climb up towards the moss forests of Mt Bellamy and we trek towards camp takes us through an ancient Arctic beech forest with magnificent giant pandanus and beech trees.

Overnight 1900 Camp

Day 7 – 1900 – Eora Creek (approx. 8 hours)

Today is a great day on the track as we cross the highest point of the track at 2190m. The scenery is spectacular as we cross down through Templeton’s 1 and along the Eora Creek to Templeton’s 2 for lunch. After lunch we have a 3 hour walk through some very pretty country before arriving at our camp Eora Creek. The area from Templeton’s 1 down to Eora Creek was the scene of major battles both during our fighting withdrawal and our advance across the track. We stop along the way to inspect the weapon pits and defensive positions.

Overnight Eora Creek

Day 8 – Eora Creek- Isurava Village

Today after breakfast we cross Eora Creek and make our way up to the Japanese defensive positions on the lower “Lost Battlefields” We view the Japanese mountain gun shells and other left over armaments. This area was the last major fight during the battles on the Kokoda Track. The Japanese fell back to Oivi and Gorari and left the Australians to re occupy Kokoda unopposed.

We continue our climb up to Alola village, Alola is a spectacular village perched on top of the ridge with stunning views down to the Eora Creek Valley and across to Abuari. Alola was also the Headquarters for Brigadier Potts during the battle of Isurava. After morning tea we continue our journey onto the Isurava Battlefields passing by the Isurava Rest house area, Surgeons rock and the area the Butch Bisset passed away.

At the Isurava memorial we have time to visit and inspect the battle sites and reflect on the heroic deeds performed by our boys. After our battlesite briefing we hold our memorial service near Kingsbury Rock before group photos are taken. We then continue our Journey down to the Isurava Village.

Overnight Isurava Village.

Day 9 – Isurava Village - Kokoda

Today is a very exciting day for all the trekkers and porters as we descend down from Isurava to Deniki. At Deniki we can see our final destination Kokoda. Deniki was also a defensive position of the Australians during our fighting withdrawal back from Kokoda. From Deniki we descend down to the beautiful village of Hoi for a refreshing swim and the realisation that you are now off the mountain.

It is now a fast walk to Kokoda and the realisation that you have achieved your dream.

We inspect the battlesite of Kokoda and discuss the actions that took place in the area.

Tonight we overnight in Kokoda.

Overnight Kokoda

Day 10

This morning we have an early morning flight back to Port Moresby and then return to our Hotel for a welcome shower and refreshments.

Overnight Gateway Hotel

Facts about the Kokoda Track

Kokoda Campaign

Kokoda was arguably Australia's most significant campaign of the Second World War. More Australians died in the seven months of fighting in Papua, and the Japanese came closer to Australia than in any other campaign.

It was on July 21, 1942, that Japanese troops landed on the northern coast of then New Guinea and unexpectedly began to march over the Owen Stanley Ranges with the intent of capturing Port Moresby.

-Australian War Memorial

Why is it named the Kokoda Track/Trail?

The Kokoda Trail was a path that linked Ower's Corner, approximately 40 km north-east of Port Moresby, and the small village of Wairopi, on the northern side of the Owen Stanley mountain range. From Wairopi, a crossing point on the Kumusi River, the Trail was connected to the settlements of Buna, Gona and Sanananda on the north coast. Its name was derived from the village of Kokoda that stood on the southern side of the main range and was the site of the only airfield between Port Moresby and the north coast.

Track or Trail?

There has been considerable debate about whether the path that crossed the Owen Stanley Range should be called the "Kokoda Trail" or the "Kokoda Track". Both "Trail" and "Track" has been in common use since the war. "Trail" is probably of American origin but has been used in many Australian history books and was adopted by the Australian Army as an official "Battle Honour". "Track" is from the language of the Australian bush. It is commonly used by veterans, and is used in the volumes of Australia's official history. Both terms are correct, but "Trail" appears to be used more widely.

Track or trail

How many people have trekked Kokoda?

Less than 0.01% of the Australian population has walked the Kokoda Track.

The Golden Stairs

The “Golden Stairs” is the first major climb we will come across.

These stairs marked the beginning of the steepest parts of the track. For those Australian troops moving along it for the first time these stairs gave them the first real indication of the degree of physical hardship they were about to undergo.

The “Golden Stairs” on the Kokoda Track between Uberi and Imita Ridge.

Kokoda Race Challenge 

The world record holder did it last year in 2011 in 17:50:33

Kokoda Hall of Fame

Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels

During the war in Papua New Guinea, the local population who were sympathetic to the Australian troops would assist where they could.

They would help in transporting stores and equipment over the rough terrain. A close relationship and bonds of friendship developed between these local men and the Australians, particularly when the sick and wounded required transporting back to field aid stations. 

It is a well accepted fact that many men would have died where they fell in Papua New Guinea had it not been for these men who became affectionately known as the ‘Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels.’

Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels

Christmas Day, 1942. An Australian soldier, George "Dick" Whittington, is aided by Papuan orderly Raphael Oimbari, at the Battle of Buna-Gona. Whittington died in February 1943 from the effects of bush typhus, this little-known killer of many Allied and Japanese soldiers in the Pacific. (Picture by George Silk.)

July 21 1942

Having had their initial effort to capture Port Moresby by a seaborne landing disrupted by the battle of the Coral Sea, the Japanese saw the Kokoda Trail as a means by which to advance on it overland. Troops of the South Seas Detachment began landing at Gona on 21 July 1942, intending initially just to test the feasibility of the Kokoda Trail as a route of advance, but a full-scale offensive soon developed. The first fighting occurred between elements of the Papuan Infantry Battalion and the 39th Australian Infantry Battalion at Awala on 23 July. Although steadily reinforced by the battalions of 30th and 21st Brigades, the Australian force was unable to hold back the Japanese. It was poorly equipped, had not yet developed effective jungle warfare tactics, and was fighting at the end of a very long and difficult supply line. A number of desperate delaying actions were fought as the Australians withdrew along the Trail. They finally stopped on 17 September at Imita Ridge, the last natural obstacle along the Trail, a mere 8 km from the junction with the road to Port Moresby. The Japanese held the opposite ridge, 6 km distant at Ioribaiwa.

-Australian War Memorial

Casualties

The Kokoda Trail fighting was some of the most desperate and vicious encountered by Australian troops in the Second World War. Although the successful capture of Port Moresby was never going to be precursor to an invasion of Australia, victory on the Kokoda Trail did ensure that Allied bases in northern Australia, vital in the coming counter-offensive against the Japanese, would not be seriously threatened by air attack. Approximately 625 Australians were killed along the Kokoda Trail and over 1,600 were wounded. Casualties due to sickness exceeded 4,000.

Casualties

Kokoda Foundation 

Adopt an angel or make a donation

http://www.kokodatrackfoundation.org/default.aspx

And remember........don't forget the sleeping bags!

Cathedral Ranges State Park

Cathedral Ranges State Park bushwalking map

Saturday - Camping
Last weekend we went camping and hiking through the beautiful Cathedral Ranges and were met Sunday morning by our friend Pat who guided us bushbashing.


A few months ago we started to buy some of the equipment we will need for Kokoda and last weekend we got to use most of it. When we go to Kokoda we will be carrying our tent, mattresses and sleeping bags. We have bought the lightest equipment we can. 

It was a great weekend even though it did include a couple of mishaps......

On the Saturday we decided we would get up early and head to our 'camping store' to buy some of the things we still needed like gaiters and water proof pants.

We then headed on our way and decided to stop for lunch at Buxton near the Ranges and hopefully get a short walk in after lunch. Well that was the plan anyway....

While eating lunch Jeremy asked 'Did you pack the sleeping bags?'

Mel 'No I didn't, did you?'

Jeremy 'No, you were in charge of packing'

Mel 'Yes, but I asked you to get them down last night....twice'

Jeremy 'But you didn't check they were packed'

Mel 'No, but I asked you to get them down last night and if they were out of the cupboard I would have seen them to pack them'

And so it went on!

Well I was adamant that we weren't going home, I decided that this was a test and that we just had to think of a solution. So we went back to a camping store about 20 mins down the road.

We didn't want to buy more sleeping bags as the ones we have bought weren't cheap! So we settled on two camping blankets that we figured we could use again.

Off we headed back to the ranges. At the campsite we started to put up our new tent when we realised the pegs didn't fit in the eyelets! Back to the bait & tackle shop down the road to buy new tent pegs.

Eventually we had camp all set up and the fire going. Half a bottle of whisky later (to keep us warm) we went to bed with several layers of clothing and about 3 pairs of socks on.

Note to self - next time remember the sleeping bags......we froze all night and didn't really get a very good night sleep. I have never been so cold in my life and at one stage I actually thought I had frost bite in my big toe.

But at the end of the day it just gets added to our list of experiences. And of course we will never forget our sleeping bags ever again.
We were lucky though because we had bought insulated matresses so that saved us from feeling the cold under us.

Sunday - Bushbashing

Next morning we were up early - had no choice really as we were still freezing, Pat met us about 9am and we headed off up to the Cathedral Peak.

From here we went bush bashing. Wearing our new gaiters and with our packs on we headed up to the peak, just before we made it to the top we headed down the side of the range where a gorge runs all the way down the side. The gorge isn't signed or mapped on the main Cathedral Map. 

Pat had done this trek a few times so we were in good hands. We trekked through dense bush, over rocks and steep drops. We had to steer clear of blackberry bushes and stinging nettles.

Half way down we stopped for lunch. It was such a great adventure, we had a ball and part from the climate I think it was the first taste of what we will be walking through when we do Kokoda.

Off to do Sugarloaf another peak in the ranges this weekend.

  

Made it!